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I have the carriers and barrel plate ready
for the new bolts and barrels
Any updates or progress with the quotes ?
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I spoke with green Mountain barrels this morning. For custom orders 13in barrels minimum order quantity is 100pcs. Will need exact specs for the quote including tolerances.
Rough material is 1in od. He does offer turning from centers to whatever diameter if we send specs, additional cost of course.
I inquired about ordering longer barrels to be cut down close to 12 in and he recommended against it due to drilling not being exactly straight. However, I would think with a 1in od I don’t believe that to be an issue myself.
Asked for a rough ballpark and he does not give them. I can send a RFQ with the exact specs and he will quote it in a day or two.
If you guys have a preference on size and rough or turned let me know and I will get a quote together and submitted
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This is not a bad price for a two barrel blank.
Cut into and finish the breech end.
The .470 diameter will work.
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http://www.gmriflebarrel.com/22-blank-22lr-21-x-1-gunsmith-edition-raw-barrel-blank/
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These were what got me looking at green Mountain. However 1in OD so would take some turning.
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These were what got me looking at green Mountain. However 1in OD so would take some turning.
I have bought used 22 barrels from swap meets for 15 to 20 bucks each.
They are usually worn out , but will work for the GG build.
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I have these barrel ends I’ll use for the inspection model.
Roughing all down to .510 first
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Hey Jerry. Are these holes for 2 alignment pins? I saw photos a while back that showed cap head bolts holding the 2 pieces together. I’m not sure if it was a photo of yours or not
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Hey Jerry. Are these holes for 2 alignment pins? I saw photos a while back that showed cap head bolts holding the 2 pieces together. I’m not sure if it was a photo of yours or not
The carrier was made from two pieces I had
left over from something. They are pinned
together with two brass pins, then machined as one.
I also made the 357 carrier from two pieces and used
pins & cap screws
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Got my mainshaft material and reamers and pins last night. Also made the mount for holding the carrier. Once I get my bandsaw setup I will section the brass and get to turning.
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Should have the quote on the barrels tomorrow or Monday.
I asked for a price on 12.250 long .500 od barrels
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I have the barrels fit to the plate, no clamps yet.
I need to bore the chambers, rim c’bores, slots
for clamps & extractors. maybe later next week,
I have in-law duty for a few days
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Going to be a shorty
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I have the barrels fit to the plate, no clamps yet.
I need to bore the chambers, rim c’bores, slots
for clamps & extractors. maybe later next week,
I have in-law duty for a few days
I hear that.
bruski
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Barrel shop called to confirm rifling specs. I requested 1-16twist unless he has a better recommendation. Should have the quote in a day I think.
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The mini barrels are finished and mounted.
Set this assembly aside now and wait for bolts.
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Same old shit , just different brass
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Looking good.
I got lucky on eBay and picked up 14 barrels for $200 delivered this past week.
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Same old shit , just different brass
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_th4vdYOD3Q
Do you have a pin in front of the bolt at full retraction to pop the casing off?
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Do you have a pin in front of the bolt at full retraction to pop the casing off?
No pin, It flips out by using spring pressure
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No pin, It flips out by using spring pressure
That’s kinda what I thought but it works so slick I had some doubts. I’ve watched a lot of your videos and am impressed with how smooth and consistent the cycling seems. Is it a function of the amount of space between the face of the bolt, and the inside of the ejector? I’ve been looking at the original rgg drawings of the bolt and ejector for over 18 yrs. and the two piece body and the funky flat ejector always made me uncomfortable. It seemed there had to be a better way, thanks for showing us the way.
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That’s kinda what I thought but it works so slick I had some doubts. I’ve watched a lot of your videos and am impressed with how smooth and consistent the cycling seems. Is it a function of the amount of space between the face of the bolt, and the inside of the ejector? I’ve been looking at the original rgg drawings of the bolt and ejector for over 18 yrs. and the two piece body and the funky flat ejector always made me uncomfortable. It seemed there had to be a better way, thanks for showing us the way.
Thanks
I’ll post more info next week when I get home
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gbull,
The firing pin has a little preload on it, pushing the casing forward.
The extractor is pulling the casing back.
This combination applies pressure on the front of the casing/cartridge
in the chamber, when it clears the chamber, it flips out
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Got a call and should have the barrel quote tomorrow. Supposedly.
Would you guys want barrels turned between centers to a .500 od or rough 1.000od that you machine down yourself?
Other option is turned between centers to a dimension larger than .500 so you can dial in the bore and make a final taper pass
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This is the quote. It is for 100 barrels. We can change any dimensions as needed but this puts us in the ballpark price wise. Shipping would be on top of this price. Let me know if you guys would be interested.
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A batch of 150 from 2011
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Is that what I have to look forward to? Plus another 50. Order went in last week, 5-6 week lead time. Sometime in June. Hope you’re ready.
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Is that what I have to look forward to? Plus another 50. Order went in last week, 5-6 week lead time. Sometime in June. Hope you’re ready.
Yes Sir gbull, and you are the first
on the list
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Some more progress with the bolt inspection model.
Made the new cocking ring from Navel Brass,
pretty tuff stuff. The switch is an extra I’ve had
for a few years
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Some more progress with the bolt inspection model.
Made the new cocking ring from Navel Brass,
pretty tuff stuff. The switch is an extra I’ve had
for a few years
I have never machined belly button brass. Closest thing was Naval brass.
(I just couldn\'t resist. LOL)
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A little more progress with the inspection model.
1/2 “ diameter for the main shaft will be here tomorrow
along with two more thrust bearings.
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Got two of the cam pieces turned. Will finish up the rest this week.
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Working on the frame today.
I decided on direct drive for the model
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Looks like a happy Gatling gun!
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This toy is ready for a cam, maybe next week.
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You have a very fertile imagination. Are you still using a gear driven feed wheel?
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You have a very fertile imagination. Are you still using a gear driven feed wheel?
No feed wheel on this one.
A small stick magazine will mount on the
middle frame stanchion using the two holes seen.
The stanchion is adjustable, sliding on the three rails.
I have the information on the geared feed wheel, if anyone wants it.
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With the stick do you have the stick down close enough to the carrier only one shell can come out and as it rotates to the next barrel the next shell loads?
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I would like the info on the geared feed
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With the stick do you have the stick down close enough to the carrier only one shell can come out and as it rotates to the next barrel the next shell loads?
Yes Sir,
The .160 dimension from the flat works well for the RG-G design.
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I would like the info on the geared feed
I do not have a detailed drawing.
This .DXF is all I have
Good luck
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Cam is in and functioning.
I’ll try popping a blank tomorrow.
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That’s about all I can do with one bolt
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Help is on the way. Package came from the lathe shop yesterday. Everything looks good. Hammer shafts out today for heat treat. Hopefully shipping out assemblies next week.
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Nice!
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Two hundred bolts might take longer to finish than the inspection model.
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Very nice Jerry. I see you made it direct drive. Do you have a way to set headspace or does it matter?
Mike
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Very nice Jerry. I see you made it direct drive. Do you have a way to set headspace or does it matter?
Mike
Yes Mike,
Front and rear nuts with set screws and a wad of nylon.
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My wife decided she wants the 12 lb model
when I’m finished with the bolts, also wanted
her name on it, in Kanji ( She’s Japanese )
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You are tooooooo much....Love it
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My wife decided she wants the 12 lb model
when I’m finished with the bolts, also wanted
her name on it, in Kanji ( She’s Japanese )
How do you get those surfaces with no hint of tooling marks?
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How do you get those surfaces with no hint of tooling marks?
The kanji was roughed with a .010 step over, and
finished with .002 step over and .002 in Z with
a .0625 ball mill
Scotch-Brite pad cleans it up good.
Still some tool marks, but close enough for my little Nip.
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With the stick do you have the stick down close enough to the carrier only one shell can come out and as it rotates to the next barrel the next shell loads?
gbull, this is the action I get with a .160 gap between magazine and flat
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I received the 200 bolts Saturday morning.
After spending 3 to 4 hours unwrapping, counting, an inspecting,
I realized how much more time it took to get them to this point.
Thank You gbull , for your many hours.
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I received the 200 bolts Saturday morning.
After spending 3 to 4 hours unwrapping, counting, an inspecting,
I realized how much more time it took to get them to this point.
Thank You gbull , for your many hours.
Thank you and the others for motivating me to act and quit being a lurker on this forum.
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Getting started on the first operation.
Cutting the follower, radius and flats.
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received 30 end mills today, We’ll see how long they last
Probably about two months before I ship.
I have some pre-planned trips for the Summer
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Just got back from Florida myself for some much needed R&R
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Back to the public topic. The price for wire edm cut extractors comes to $4.10 each. That does not include the spring and plunger. We can get a bulk rate price on the springs and I think we can all make our own plungers, unless someone wants to handle them. I am hoping to have a price on machining the rest of the bodies complete. Without a complete gun it is hard to sell a complete assembly since I am not that far along to have a shooting platform to be able to verify functionality. Any thoughts?
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I’m in for some extractors. I’ll know how many shortly.
Awaiting the quote for machining to complete the bolts.
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I would be in for extractors too. I’m not sure but I think the spring and plunger is a stock Ruger part.
Mike
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They may be, but in bulk the springs are probably only a buck, and the plunger is really a simple turning job.
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I am in for the extractors and springs. I have a complete gun which I built using Cutters bolts with the RGG extractors. Thinking how we could use it to test functionality.
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It would need the proper clearance cut in the barrel to clear the roger style extractor. I guess it would depend how clearance you gave your barrels.
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In for the springs as well. The plungers would be easy to turn
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So far so good. Now to see how it fits the sample bolt I have. The price should be around $4.10 ea. These are made from cutter’s dxf file. Still need to source the firing pins.
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McMaster carr has the mold pins for firing pins
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McMaster carr has the mold pins for firing pins
What is the part number?
Thanks
Mike
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I will look tonight. I believe I have it written down at home
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They do have pins. They do need to have the heads ground down on the dia. and thickness. I was hoping to find some with smaller heads.
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I have have a toolpost grinder if need be
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Gbull let me know if you find some
Mike
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They do have pins. They do need to have the heads ground down on the dia. and thickness. I was hoping to find some with smaller heads.
Heads on ejector pins and core pins are annealed and can be machined easily.
Frank
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This is the measurements I have. I thought I had written down the part number but I seem to remember discussing machining first and buying the pins after to achieve the desired fit.
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This is what I used, from McMaster-Carr
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Thanks Jerry!ðŸ‘