My RG-G Build Progress

Hi All

I started a message in the Machining Forum that should have been in there. My parts are not as shiny as most of the gun parts in this forum but I can always polish the some day....

 

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Just got finished milling the flats on the bolt housings and had them in the carrer block sitting on the mill table, turned around, knocked them off with my elbow and they landed on bolt housing No.1 and WHAM! knocked a big flat spot on it. Well, I made another one and a spare. Next up is soldering or welding in the recoil pins. I dread that part. No experence with that! Wish me luck!

 

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The parts look great, especially the lettering on your front barrel plate. Did you do that freehand with letter and number stamps? bruski

No I made them an the CAC at work?

Here\'s some more progress.. Also you can see how I cut the Barrel extractor reliefs. The barrels are done,I think!I\'ll add a Pic in tha next post.

 

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The Barrels... I only have 10 barrels and two Barrel Plate Rear 48-02

 

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This is looking very nice. Keep up the good work. The photos are great

[Dave]

Yes! Very nice!!

Question 1 : In the bolt housings pictured below, what is the best way to number them to match the carrer block holes ::: Just whack them with a number stencle? I don\'t what to warp them!

Question 2 : I have soldered the recoil pins in to the bolt housing. What do you think about sandblasting them to bet the black off?


Question 3 : RG-G drawings call for a No. 6-32 set screw to hold in the recoil pins! Is the set screw still needed?


R-R

 

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HI R-R,
 I haven\'t got to this point yet, but I have given it some thought already though. I would make another bolt plug out of a 3/8-24 bolt by turning down the threads on the front part of the bolt so it will just clear the .302 ID and screw it in until it stops.
 What type of finish are you going to leave on your bolts? If you are going to blue them, then sand blasting wouldn\'t be the choice unless you are planning to parkerize them. You might try blasting them with baking soda instead of sand. This is what they use to remove rust from metal without pitting it.
 The set screw was intended to hold the recoil pins in place with the firing pin groove lined up at 60 degrees for soldering. It also is a backup to keep the recoil pin in place should the solder break loose under heavy firing. Some guys are just drilling a blind hole and then pinning with a hardened pin. This would make it very difficult to disassemble the recoil pin if needed though.
 bruski

This week ends work! Didn\'t have much time to do anything on my Gat. I have been dreading cutting the extractors for a long time (their so small) but they went easy! I took a piece of 1x2x4 steel bar, cut a shallow step in the face (2x4 surface) to lay the 1/8 square stock on, cut about .040 off the width, set it on parallels in the vise, put 16 - 1/8\"pieces if stock on it and tapped them down in Z and squared them up in X and cut the 3/8 wide step on one end. Turned them around and cut the other end. Peice-O-Cake. I didn\'t have a 11 degree taper mill so I used what I had and I didn\'t cut the chamfers on the bottom. I\'ll probably just hit them on the grinder if it becomes necessary later.

 

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Hay! The light bulb in me head just came on! I\'ll tilt the milling machine head over to 11Deg.s and cut the relief on the bottom.... Duuuu.. :roll:

Is that a Cartridge Neck Chamfering Tool that you used to \"mill\" the end of the Extractors. Clever, I would not have thought of that..

nitewatchman

What is the material you used for the Extractors? Can you or do you plan on heat treating them? I have pondered about what is the \"best\" material to use to make these parts.

nitewatchman

It\'s cold roll steel. I hope they will hold up OK.  If I remember correctly, Paul Moore @ RG-G said he used CR.  I\'m going to try them as they are. No heat treating. In the previous post I said I had not cut the 11 deg. angles but that was 15 deg. :oops: and I just went and cut them.. The next job is going to cut the extractor slot in the bolts. I may do that job on the MAZAK CNC at work. I already have it programed but I\'d rather do it at home...  

Thanks
R-R

P.S. The Cartridge case chamfer tool cut the CR steel great. I was going to use a spot drill but the ones I have are all 45Deg. ansd this tool looked better!

Todays Progress: I started milling the extractor slots in the bolts. For anyone else I recommend rotating the recoil pin around as far as possible and still keep the fireing pin slots closed and I used a No. 51 aircraft drill form mscdirect.com to drill it out. I made a little block out of some junk to hold the bolts level in the vise for milling.

 

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HI,
   Reading your progress. On your extractors you should heat treat them.
 There is a product called Kadenit that will case harden low carbon steel.
 Extractors are generally heat treated because they take a lote of abuse
 and will ware out quick. The product is available from Brownells Ph. 800-741-0015 or WWW> Brownells.com. They are the largest supplier of what ever you need to do gunsmithing. I\'d reallly hate to see to go thru all that work and have your parts ware out to early. Ever think out Gatling made his? He didn\'t have milling machines. He was a farmer and Blacksmith.

\"Ever think out Gatling made his? He didn\'t have milling machines. He was a farmer and Blacksmith.\"

It is for sure that Mr Gatling was much more than a blacksmith.  I\'ve seen a few machinist that wouldn\'t make a good blacksmith! :lol:  I guess it works both ways.  And the extractors, I have some hardening compound. I don\'t know what the name is but it works. I think it makes a 2 or 3 thousands shell on mild steel.

Hi,
   Have you thought of spliting the main housing so the top can be removed for assemble and service. I\'m going to. I\'m building mine completely from steel except the bolt carrier. I\'m using te same plans you have and understand that there has been some changes since they were orginally made is that so?  My plans are aroud 1993.

My RGG is also being built with a horizontally split casing and three piece cam. This allows the hood to be opened to check the oil.

nitewatchman