Author Topic: Rust on parkerizing  (Read 1818 times)

Offline maccrazy2

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Rust on parkerizing
« on: December 24, 2018, 11:33:59 AM »
Merry Christmas everyone.

 I went out to shoot some trap yesterday and discovered a nasty little surprise when getting a shotgun out of the safe. There is rust forming on a few guns! I removed and slathered everything with oil. Also, baked the desicant dryer to “reset” it. Everything cleaned up well but the bare muzzle of a bench rest gun and the parkerized handle on another. The muzzle I can retouch on the lathe. The handle cleaned up fairly well but is a little discolored.

Do you guys have any recommendations on any products to use to address the discoloration.  I didn’t do the finish on this gun. I took a few photos but it really did not show up well in the photos.  

Secondly, what are you doing to combat moisture in a safe? I have a cannon brand desicant can in there now. I plan on applying silicone around the anchors in the bottom Incase it’s moisture seeping in from the slab. I’m in Colorado so it’s typically quite low moisture here. I had a golden rod in another safe and it seemed to work ok but, this one does not have and holes to run wires.

I’m going to call liberty after the holiday and see what they suggest

Offline maccrazy2

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Rust on parkerizing
« Reply #1 on: December 24, 2018, 11:34:41 AM »
Other side.

Offline maccrazy2

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Rust on parkerizing
« Reply #2 on: December 24, 2018, 11:36:07 AM »
It actually looks fine in the photos but it is noticeable in person.

Offline 4171

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Rust on parkerizing
« Reply #3 on: December 24, 2018, 01:34:35 PM »
Is that a browning 30 cal. Machine gun?😀

Offline maccrazy2

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« Reply #4 on: December 24, 2018, 05:57:32 PM »
It’s a semi 1919a4 I built about 15 years ago.

Offline 4171

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« Reply #5 on: December 24, 2018, 06:53:11 PM »
Cool! From a kit?

Offline maccrazy2

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« Reply #6 on: December 24, 2018, 07:06:55 PM »
It’s a semi side plate and a machinegun parts set. We milled down the internals to fit. The semi sideplate is thicker and the internals have to be modified to fit. The ATF wanted it so the original internals could not be swapped back in. I bought the kit a few years before doing it before the prices went nuts. Iirc, I paid about $370 for the kit and about $150 for the side plate, rivits and associated parts.
« Last Edit: December 24, 2018, 07:07:15 PM by maccrazy2 »

Offline bruski

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Rust on parkerizing
« Reply #7 on: December 24, 2018, 11:29:50 PM »

Is that a 30-06 or a 308?


 


bruski



Offline maccrazy2

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« Reply #8 on: December 25, 2018, 08:30:57 AM »
It’s .308. Right now. I was going to convert to 8mm for ammo cost savings but ultimately decided against it as I’m trying to stick to several common calibers.

A couple friends have full autos and they switched to 8mm but they were buying ammo by the pallet load to get it cheap.

Offline bruski

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« Reply #9 on: December 25, 2018, 11:02:45 AM »

You guys must reload ammo. Does the 8 mm use the same type of links?



Offline maccrazy2

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« Reply #10 on: December 25, 2018, 11:06:51 AM »
8mm uses the cloth belts.

Offline maccrazy2

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« Reply #11 on: December 25, 2018, 01:13:26 PM »
I bought a shroud from a guy who made a run of them to convert the gun into a mini M2. I have to get a spare barrel and turn it down to the freefloated profile. It is a cool looking setup. My 50cal club used to put on 50cal/machinegun shoots but they fell apart several years ago so I don’t do much with these lately.

Offline bruski

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« Reply #12 on: December 26, 2018, 12:17:11 AM »

There is a guy here in Yuma that has a 30 cal. Browning I think is a model 1919 and every 4TH of July, he heads out to an old Military shooting range. Most of the time he shoots belts of nothing but tracers that looks like a red bull whip in the air, cool. He also has or had a 50 cal Browning also but I think he said that he got rid of all his 50 cal stuff when I talked to him at the last gun show. Too expensive!


 


bruski



Offline maccrazy2

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« Reply #13 on: December 26, 2018, 01:49:04 PM »
During the heyday of cheap imported and surplus ammo we used to really go nuts shooting but when 9mm and 7.62 ect... went from 69-100 to $350-400 a case it really slowed down my hosing down the targets. I still have my class 3 stuff but other than suppressors I only take it out when I’m taking people who have never shot full autos.

The tracers were a blast there since we had the whole area cleared and the fire department on standby at the event. They had to put out many grass fires over the weekend every year. I shot up most all of the small caliber tracers. I still have about 4K of API, APIT and spotter tracer bullets for 50’s. I eventually will try to work a nice package deal for something as I can’t shoot them here as the fire danger is too high all year round.

Offline Stirlingking

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Rust on parkerizing
« Reply #14 on: December 26, 2018, 04:16:46 PM »

Hello maccrazy2, we have several legal full autos in our clubs here in Kingman, AZ, all owned by the same person. 


On my to do list is to make my own tracer bullets with strontium carbonate from road flares. 


My Gen 2 Gatling will be in 5.7x28 (Gen 1 is still a WIP) and I will be swaging bullets in .224 for it using 


Corbin swage dies and .22 rimfire casings for bullet jackets.  http://www.corbins.com/\'>http://www.corbins.com/


I will be proceeding cautiously as none of us in our local clubs know what road flares will do to our barrels.


Small centerfire used to be cheaper to reload than buying .22 rimfire, but with the amazing drop in .22 ammo prices, I will have to refigure. 


I can still swage .224 projectiles from 32 gr up to approaching 100 gr ULD rebated boat tails, including many


configurations which aren\'t available anyplace. 


I have plans to swage custom 6 mm/.243 bullets also, but that might be for another thread. 


Everyone have a Happy, healthy and prosperous New Year! 


 


Stirlingking 


« Last Edit: December 26, 2018, 04:24:27 PM by Stirlingking »

Offline maccrazy2

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« Reply #15 on: December 26, 2018, 04:30:44 PM »
I never tried flares. I did try the diy recipe in the little book they used to sell at gun shows. I think pallidan press printed them. They partially worked but nothing like commercial tracers. Acquiring the various components was easy. I built a block with 8 holes and hardend pins for pressing the tracer pellets. It’s not until putting it in the shop press that I really got concerned that “what if this blows up” lol. I made a plywood blast shield and pumped away.

I drilled out 9mm bullets to test them and it was not very reliable.

Offline Stirlingking

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Rust on parkerizing
« Reply #16 on: December 26, 2018, 09:34:02 PM »

maccrazy2: I did some verifying and apparently strontium chloride/nitrate are also used in road flares. 


Calcium chloride produces an orange flame and is a desiccant as well as a road salt, which brings me back to


the original thread you started, which slipped my mind. 


I went online to find calcium chloride to use for freeze drying food.  I don\'t know where states that salt their roads get 


their calcium salt, but it sure can be expensive for several lbs.  It can be dried in an oven as any desiccant, though. 


I am not going to dehydrate food anymore. I am experimenting with freeze drying using vacuum.  Calcium chloride can


also be used, since as food freezes, frost forms and starts to sublimate, and the calcium chloride absorbs the moisture.  


My thought was you could use calcium chloride to keep your guns dry and maybe make your own 25 year shelf life survival food. 


My things stopped rusting when I moved from Tacoma to Arizona.    https://www.instructables.com/id/Freeze-Dry-At-Home/\'>https://www.instructables.com/id/Freeze-Dry-At-Home/


 


Stirlingking 


« Last Edit: December 26, 2018, 09:37:01 PM by Stirlingking »