Jump to content


Photo

My RG-G Build Progress


  • Please log in to reply
77 replies to this topic

#21 gerald L. Hicks

gerald L. Hicks

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 10 posts

Posted 18 February 2011 - 01:04 PM

Good morning,
It sure looks like your project it going to look like mine. If you have any other changes i'm interested
There is another gat Chat forum right under this one on the web site does it have anything connected with this one?
Point of interest- Gatling had a brother two years older name James and in 1873 he built and tested the first american airplane. It actualy flew. He had the right idea needed some refinement. Power sourses for such a thing had't been developed by then.There is a replice of it in the Gatlingmuseum in Murfeesboro North Carolina. A friend of mine was living there and helped build it in 2003. That was 30 years before the Wright brothers were at Kitty Hawk.

#22 R-R

R-R

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 88 posts
  • LocationN. Georgia

Posted 18 February 2011 - 08:27 PM

Hi Gerald & Nitewatchman
I too would like to make my Gat a flip top model. Do you have any revised drawings or pictures? At this time (See the first picture in the first post in this thread) I have two Cam Box blanks cut out and taped and they have the .5" slot cut also. Can the main housing and cam box be made, then cut into. Oh, are you going to put any engraving on the on the main housing? A plaque or something?

R-R

#23 gerald L. Hicks

gerald L. Hicks

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 10 posts

Posted 18 February 2011 - 10:12 PM

Hi,
I don't have any drawing other then the orginal ones I got from RRG.
I'm going to cut the outer housing right parallel with the top edge of the main frame Then bolt it to the cam box on top and the lower half toward the back end and also to the back cover plate.
My drive setup I'm using bevel gears and will be able to operate it from either side. I'm left handed. Besides I already have the gears in my tool box. I've got to pick up the thrust bearing yet and besides the barrels that will be about all I'll have invested in it. I'm building from what I have on hand.

#24 nitewatchman

nitewatchman

    Site Admin

  • Moderators
  • 174 posts

Posted 18 February 2011 - 11:59 PM

Hi Gerald & Nitewatchman
I too would like to make my Gat a flip top model. Do you have any revised drawings or pictures? At this time (See the first picture in the first post in this thread) I have two Cam Box blanks cut out and taped and they have the .5" slot cut also. Can the main housing and cam box be made, then cut into. Oh, are you going to put any engraving on the on the main housing? A plaque or something?

R-R


I will post progress pictures, right now a busy travel schedule is cutting into my build time. I average about 175,000 flying miles per year.

For the casing plaque I am using one of the scale reproductions from Paul at RGG. They are awsume.


nitewatchman

#25 gerald L. Hicks

gerald L. Hicks

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 10 posts

Posted 19 February 2011 - 01:58 PM

HI
I sent RG-G an E-Mail and he hasn't answered me yet . The casting he has sounds like a good idea. I have some babit ingots and was thinking of trying to cast something for it.

#26 R-R

R-R

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 88 posts
  • LocationN. Georgia

Posted 20 February 2011 - 06:09 PM

This weekends progress:

I called Paul Moore and he suggested I cut the extractor slot an additional 0.030 deeper. He didn't ellaberate and I didn't question him further as to what he ment by that. So, I cut the area where the extractor spring is 0.090 deep (drawing call for 0.060). I should have rotated the recoil pins around further because the 0.130 deep area cut through into the firing pin hole. The firing pin and the extractor don't appear to be interfering with each other when assembeled. Also, I made another little jig to hold the bolts for drilling. Are there any suggestions as to how it hold the extractor pins in place? So far I'm using the paper clip that was in the parts kit from RG-G as the extractor pin. All I can think of is to stake them with a littel punch or use a touch of Loctite 333. P.S. I cut the extractor slot 0.005 wider (0.0130) and extractor opperates freely now. I always make things fit so close the want work if a tiny spec of debre get in there!

 

Attached File  DSC04397-id=399.JPG   556.76KB   4 downloads

 

Attached File  DSC04395-id=400.JPG   570.61KB   2 downloads

 

Attached File  DSC04394-id=401.JPG   573.39KB   2 downloads

 

Attached File  DSC04393-id=402.JPG   590.37KB   2 downloads



#27 R-R

R-R

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 88 posts
  • LocationN. Georgia

Posted 25 February 2011 - 03:13 AM

Finaly got around to engraving my bolts. I used a 1/8" 90 Deg spot drill. That's one headacke out of the way. I recommend anyone else munber their bolts when they are still just steel bars. That way you can just use stensel punches and a hammer with out worrying about warping them. Then turn it,drill it, mill cut away, solder in recoil pins, mill extractor slot, drill the extractor pin hole. MAN! There's a lot of work in these puppys! :shock: I hope I'm not posting too many pictures!

 

Attached File  DSC04405-id=407.JPG   585.47KB   0 downloads



#28 nitewatchman

nitewatchman

    Site Admin

  • Moderators
  • 174 posts

Posted 25 February 2011 - 04:58 AM

The more pictures the better.

BTW - How did you engrave your bolts, what was the setup?

#29 Pmercer

Pmercer

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 121 posts

Posted 25 February 2011 - 12:21 PM

They look amazing, and the more picture, the better. Thats my thought.

How did you engrave them? I'm very impressed.

#30 R-R

R-R

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 88 posts
  • LocationN. Georgia

Posted 25 February 2011 - 07:16 PM

@ work we have a FADAL 4020A with a 4th axes. Any shape or line drawing like text can be programed and engraved into round surfaces. Like the Salt & Pepper shakers below. I would like to get a closeup picture of the plack on top of the gat. I can engrave it in to the main housing. I was also thinking about putting something on the frame 48-06.

 

Attached File  DSC04417-id=409.JPG   576.01KB   2 downloads



#31 R-R

R-R

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 88 posts
  • LocationN. Georgia

Posted 25 February 2011 - 10:54 PM

Yea Team! I got all the bolts finished and the extractors installed. As you can see I ground down a small piece of 1/8 materal to 0.063 for a feeler gage and I cut some 1/8" wide strips of thin cardboard and layed it in the 0.130 deep area so the extractor would be level with the top of the extractor slot for drilling. I didn't like the paper clip that RG-G had with the materal kit so I got 5 more 3/64 drills and cut the shank off the extractor pins. I got 2 out of each drill. Then I used a small pinch to stake them in. I'm glad that part is done! :lol:

 

Attached File  DSC04418-id=410.JPG   593.61KB   4 downloads

 

Attached File  DSC04419-id=411.JPG   540.2KB   0 downloads



#32 R-R

R-R

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 88 posts
  • LocationN. Georgia

Posted 06 March 2011 - 02:53 AM

Well Gat Fans: Not much progress! I did finish my "NUTs". By the way, I getting a lot of steel parts that will need to be blued or parkerized. What it the best place to buy blueing supplys. And, what about finish? Polishing or Blasting. Has anyone blasted then blued any parts? I kinda plan to finish this gun like the old guns were. More functional than a work of art if you know what I mean.
 

 

Attached File  DSC04425-id=418.JPG   137.42KB   2 downloads

 

 

 

 



#33 Dave

Dave

    Site Admin

  • Administrators
  • 763 posts
  • LocationIllinois

Posted 07 March 2011 - 03:49 PM

Any progress is some progress!

I cold blued a gun with some stuff from brownells, it sure looked pretty but comes off in your hands. I polished all my parts before bluing.... Bluing does not hide anything, it just turns it blue. So whatever the part looks like before its blued, is what the final part will look like.

#34 R-R

R-R

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 88 posts
  • LocationN. Georgia

Posted 07 March 2011 - 11:06 PM

Thanks Dave!
For now I think I'll just keep them oiled down... Some of the ones I made years ago are tarnished not really rusted but they look kinda rough. And the stuf in my original post were made several years ago at work. They don't minde if I make stuff after work or on Sat. but after 10Hrs production I just can't start another part :shock: and after I have worked off a lathe and now I'm working off a CNC indexer, I don't want to make Gat parts at work. :|
R-R
P.S. At work they have some buffers with polyester wheels a ruge (If thats how you spell it)That will go a long way to make things shine...
A coworker has a tank and some Parkerizing liquid. I may go that rout. If so I'll blast the parts. That way whey want have to be quite so pollished.

#35 Steve McKuhen

Steve McKuhen

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 189 posts

Posted 08 March 2011 - 01:27 AM

Black oxide? Caswellplating.com.

#36 R-R

R-R

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 88 posts
  • LocationN. Georgia

Posted 13 March 2011 - 08:21 PM

I have some "TOOL BLACK" at work. I'm going to give it a try Monday!

This weekends progress: Friday I milled the front main shaft support. I have had it programed for about a month but just now ran it. Then off and on saturday I made some knobs.
Attached File  DSC04428-id=434.JPG   120.86KB   2 downloads
I think I need some more coolent :shock:
Attached File  DSC04427-id=435.JPG   577.66KB   0 downloads
Some little knobs.
Attached File  DSC04439-id=436.JPG   545.34KB   2 downloads



#37 bruski

bruski

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 418 posts
  • LocationARIZONA

Posted 13 March 2011 - 08:43 PM

That looks great, you have the knurling down to perfection. bruski

#38 R-R

R-R

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 88 posts
  • LocationN. Georgia

Posted 13 March 2011 - 09:05 PM

Thanks for the compliment Bruski! Here is the type of knurling tool I used. I'd call it a sizzor type. First time I've ever used this type. The knurling tools with fixed spacing on the rollers seem to take a lot more pressure on the work. The small knob in the previous reply was only in the chuck about a 1/2". I opened the rollers to about 75% of the diameter of the part. RPM was about 150. Just tool a couple of seconds.
Thanks
R-R
 

 

Attached File  DSC04442-id=437.JPG   597.64KB   2 downloads



#39 Dave

Dave

    Site Admin

  • Administrators
  • 763 posts
  • LocationIllinois

Posted 13 March 2011 - 09:21 PM

Looking good!!! What type of steel was used for the bolts?

#40 R-R

R-R

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 88 posts
  • LocationN. Georgia

Posted 13 March 2011 - 09:27 PM

1018




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users