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My 1862 gat that i got to test fire last month


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#21 EPPS 1919

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Posted 08 March 2010 - 01:49 AM

moor

 

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#22 Dave

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Posted 08 March 2010 - 01:51 AM

Where did you get your idea or drawings? Looks nice!!!!

#23 EPPS 1919

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Posted 08 March 2010 - 01:59 AM

Got it from original patent. the rest from a few books on gatling gun and what i can think of

#24 jarhead jim

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Posted 08 March 2010 - 01:59 AM

That is just cool as hell. Yes, you have to do this proceedure to each picture. It won't take that long and I can't wait to see 'em!

Jim

#25 EPPS 1919

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Posted 09 March 2010 - 12:14 AM

the yoke and swivel mount. I made parts from a piece of 7" pipe, the side parts .50" plate for the swivel mount. I used a ball end mill and a turn table to make a round grove and used .375 ball bearings in the grove

 

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#26 EPPS 1919

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Posted 09 March 2010 - 12:15 AM

The yoke

 

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#27 EPPS 1919

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Posted 09 March 2010 - 12:18 AM

the finished yoke, no pant yet.

 

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#28 EPPS 1919

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Posted 09 March 2010 - 12:24 AM

I made a hopper first just like first gun. I can use the hopper or the 24 round mag just by changing 2 bolts

 

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#29 EPPS 1919

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Posted 09 March 2010 - 12:37 AM

Hay Jarhead Jim can you tell me how you shrink the tire on. I got 3/16 x 2" flat iron for the tires. got the spokes ruff cut and the fellows made, working on the hubs. making the hubs out of 6" round stock. wagon wheels are a bitch to make for the first time.

#30 jarhead jim

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Posted 09 March 2010 - 02:40 AM

Sure thing! You are shrinking a smaller tire than what I work with. mine were 3-1/2" wide and 1/2" thick. Shouldn't matter much though.

When you have your spokes and felloes put together they need to be as tight as possible to get the best results. The looser your fittings are, the looser your tire will be. You may have to re shrink several times to get the tire tight so we'll just assume your spokes and felloes are pretty close.

Get yourself a measuring wheel or flexible tape measure. Measure the outside circumference of the felloes. You want a pretty accurate reading here.

Next, cut your steel tire in half where the original weld was. (This way you get rid of one extra weld) Next, measure your tire and cut it off (or add if your tire is too small) so your measurement is about 9/16" SMALLER than the outside measurement of the wooden felloes. Weld the tire together. Take your tire and set it on the wooden wheel with it laying on it's side on the ground. It shouldn't slip over the wooden wheel.

Build yourself a fire the shape of your tire. I use tree branches and kerosene. I then lay the wooden wheel on it's side close to the tire in the fire. I lay bricks under the felloes right under where the tire will slip on. I shim them up so when the tire slips on, it won't slip on too far and go over the felloes. You will want a friend of two to help you with this.

Let the fire get hot. I can't tell you how many degrees this is but your tire should stay black and don't let it even come close to turning red or even a dark red. This is too damned hot and will burn your felloes, possibly ruining them. What I have had to do before is let the fire burn for about 10 minutes and using vice grips, grab it out of the fire and try to slip it over the wooden wheel. If it doesn't slip on I put it back in the fire for a few more minutes. 2 guys doing this together makes it really easy. The 3rd member should be standing by with a garden hose to quickly quench the tire. When you have the tire exactly centered over the felloes, start the quenching. You will hear popping from the spokes being driven into the felloes. That's a good sign. Wdhen you start quenching the tire, it will shrink FAST! So be sure you have it where you want it before spraying the water.

Jim

#31 jarhead jim

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Posted 09 March 2010 - 02:50 AM

Epps, what diameter are your wheels?

JKim

#32 EPPS 1919

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Posted 10 March 2010 - 01:39 AM

Thanks Jarhead jim, was going to use a torch o/a to heat it up. rose bud tip but i thought it mite be to big around to get it good and hot evenly. may wheels are going to be 48" in dia. x 2" wide tire. the one on the milatry base that i work at has an 1865 12lb canon with 50" x 2"wheels

#33 EPPS 1919

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Posted 10 March 2010 - 01:40 AM

starting on the wheels

 

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#34 jarhead jim

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Posted 10 March 2010 - 03:53 AM

48" wheels....... Probably need to make the tire 9/16" smaller inside diameter than your wooden wheel. You're in luck if you have the 6 to 8 piece felloed wheel. I tried putting in 16 spokes in a 2 piece felloed wheel and that was damned near impossible. Looks like you got a plan and know what you're doing. When you go to put your spokes in, start the first one just a hair, then the next one, slowly tapping the felloe above the spoke. Go to the next one. As you go the tennon on the end of the spokes will be further off of the tennon holes. I used a rope and tied it around the furthest off spoke to the one next to it to pull it together so it would reach the hole. It helped a bunch on my wheels. I had some that were 12 spoked wheels and the others were 14 and 16. The most spokes I tried to put in a single felloe that worked out pretty good was 4. Just some info you might need.

Great job on your gun!

Jim

#35 EPPS 1919

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Posted 10 March 2010 - 10:28 PM

Thanks for the info, the moor the better. My wheels will have 12 spokes. the gun is only 135 lbs.

#36 EPPS 1919

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Posted 11 March 2010 - 12:41 AM

ruff cut spokes

 

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#37 EPPS 1919

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Posted 11 March 2010 - 12:42 AM

turning hubs

 

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#38 EPPS 1919

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Posted 11 March 2010 - 12:44 AM

Outside hub

 

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#39 jarhead jim

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Posted 11 March 2010 - 02:29 AM

Are you going with a bolted hub or the wooden style?

Jim

#40 EPPS 1919

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Posted 13 March 2010 - 02:17 AM

I going to use bolted hubs. not sure how to put a dish in the wheel or just leave them straight. any help would be great. Epps




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