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Newbie working on a RG-G


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#21 bruski

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Posted 08 March 2019 - 04:24 PM

You are seeing it correctly. The shoulder is what stops the barrel and holds it under pressure from the wedge and it's clamping screw that is tightened to the barrel plate. The wedge relief cuts in the barrels need to be in sink with your extractor relief cuts also.

 

bruski



#22 Cutter

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Posted 08 March 2019 - 05:11 PM

I took a second look at enlarged versions of the pictures you provided ad it looks like  there may be a reduction in the diameter of the barrel similar to what would be if the end was threaded.This of course creates a shoulder.  The hole in the barrel plate is sized to fit the barrel, or vise versa, and the barrel is retained by the shoulder on  barrel and the  wedge shaped clamp. Am I seeing this correctly?

 

"You are seeing it correctly. The shoulder is what stops the barrel and holds it under pressure from the wedge and it's clamping screw that is tightened to the barrel plate. The wedge relief cuts in the barrels need to be in sink with your extractor relief cuts also.

bruski "

 

 
I used a 25/64 ( .3906 ) reamer for the barrel plate, then turned
the barrels down for a slip fit.
Cutter


#23 Larryx

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Posted 08 March 2019 - 05:39 PM

Very helpful. Thanks for the swift response

#24 Larryx

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Posted 02 October 2019 - 12:42 AM

I am getting ready to drill and tap the 2-56 holes in what will be the breach end of the cam the small size is a bit scary. any suggestions from those of you who have been down this road?

#25 maccrazy2

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Posted 02 October 2019 - 01:31 AM

Best help I can offer is 1st use a high quality tap. Irwin brand and similar hardware store taps are of marginal quality at best.
2ond if possible use a tap guide. IE drill press, mill, lathe tailstock ect... to support and guide the tap.
3rd hand tap and break the chip/back up frequently and clean out the grooves in the tap before they load up with swarf.
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#26 Cutter

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Posted 02 October 2019 - 04:52 PM

I am getting ready to drill and tap the 2-56 holes in what will be the breach end of the cam the small size is a bit scary. any suggestions from those of you who have been down this road?

For what it’s worth.
My choice is a thread forming tap , AKA Roll tap.
I used 4-40 instead 2-56 on all builds
Good luck

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#27 maccrazy2

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Posted 02 October 2019 - 07:21 PM

Jerry. Do you use it by hand? I have used some in aluminum 5/16 18 but that is the extent of my experience. I was using a tapmatic head in the Bridgeport to run it.
I was told at the time they were more suited for power tapping however I was only told that by one person and I have no idea if it’s correct.

#28 Cutter

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Posted 02 October 2019 - 07:49 PM

Jerry. Do you use it by hand? I have used some in aluminum 5/16 18 but that is the extent of my experience. I was using a tapmatic head in the Bridgeport to run it.
I was told at the time they were more suited for power tapping however I was only told that by one person and I have no idea if it’s correct.

 

I have no problems hand tapping a roll tap.
This video was posted 7 years ago, showing a 2-56 roll tap

Attached Files


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#29 Larryx

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Posted 03 October 2019 - 08:57 PM

I am getting  ready to drill and tap the 2-56 holes through the recoil plate. The small size of these holes makes the operation somewhat scary for me. Is there and words of wisdom from those who have accomplished this?



#30 bruski

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Posted 04 October 2019 - 08:13 PM

Use a small center drill to start the holes, then use a sharp new split point drill spinning at a high rpm and gently peck drill with a little coolant and you should have success.

 

bruski



#31 Dave

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Posted 05 October 2019 - 11:18 PM

I am getting  ready to drill and tap the 2-56 holes through the recoil plate. The small size of these holes makes the operation somewhat scary for me. Is there and words of wisdom from those who have accomplished this?

I would take Cutters advice and go 4-40


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#32 Larryx

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Posted 08 October 2019 - 11:56 PM

thanks to all you guys who responded to my question. I would be a fool if I didn't look into the 440. Will do

#33 Larryx

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Posted 07 November 2019 - 03:45 AM

today I took the plunge and set up to drill and tap the holes. I found out that is "a piece of cake". I worried about breaking taps botching the holes etc. but all went better than expected. I had a question regarding the box cam now that I am ready to cut the slot in the tube so I got on the phone with Paul Moore of RG-G. He sent me a picture of the box cam where the two sections remain attached to each other by two thinned webs. the outer surface is the same as the box but the webs are thinned to 0.090". The bolt pins pass beneath the webs in operation. saves having to deal with the two separate pieces. what do the greater minds think?
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#34 gbull

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Posted 07 November 2019 - 11:40 AM

That’s interesting. I would really like to see that. Did he use a woodruff cutter? The webs must be on the outside of the tube, right. Can you try posting a picture of it? I need to do the math to see if he shortened the height of the lug to get that much clearance.
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#35 Larryx

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Posted 07 November 2019 - 06:25 PM

I will attempt to post a picture. this will be my 1st attempt at doing so so please be patient.

#36 Larryx

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Posted 08 November 2019 - 04:06 PM



#37 Larryx

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Posted 08 November 2019 - 04:39 PM

Attached File  1AA one piece cam lg.jpg   127.44KB   0 downloads Here is the picture. You can see the webs in the slot if you look carefully. It looks as if the box cams in the photo do not have the bolt removal slot cut as yet


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#38 maccrazy2

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Posted 08 November 2019 - 07:14 PM

It looks as though a woodruff Cutter to clearance the web in the flat area I guess.
Making the cams from brass. I’m curious of the longevity of them.

#39 bruski

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Posted 08 November 2019 - 10:27 PM

A little dab of grease in the cam slot should keep her running a long time.

 

bruski



#40 4171

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Posted 09 November 2019 - 04:01 AM

Larry,
How many gats you making? Are you using cnc to make the cams?
Nice work!
Mike




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