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Newbie working on a RG-G


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#1 bradlyw1

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Posted 08 November 2018 - 12:55 AM

Hello Folks, just thought I would introduce myself. I was brought to my Machine shop in Central Washington State a RG-G design that had been about 60% complete. I am Gathering up information on this project and spent several hours on the phone with Paul Moore. He was very helpful and kind and encouraged me to finish this project, also went over changes on the prints. I am so impressed with the past help from all members and hope that there are still some active members here to help me along. Looking forward to meeting all of you.. Thanks, Bradly



#2 Cutter

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Posted 08 November 2018 - 03:04 PM

Welcome Bradly,
Hoping you look just like your Avatar 

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#3 bradlyw1

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Posted 08 November 2018 - 11:34 PM

 

Welcome Bradly,
Hoping you look just like your Avatar 

 

I wish Jerry, I would not have to work...haha  I tried to load some photos of myself but they were to large to read..Oh well. I love Tomi Lohren..



#4 Dave

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Posted 09 November 2018 - 11:57 AM

Welcome to the forum!



#5 bruski

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Posted 09 November 2018 - 05:10 PM

Welcome to the forum. The way that I resize pictures is with Windows paint. Just open up windows accessories and click on paint. Open the file or picture that you want to resize and it should probably be very large and take up the entire window. So click on resize, then click on pixels, then type in about 700 for the top box and the other will automatically resize to match it. Click on OK, then click on file save and your done.

 

bruski

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  • Attached File  RG-G.JPG   174.3KB   1 downloads

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#6 bradlyw1

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Posted 10 November 2018 - 03:04 AM

Welcome to the forum. The way that I resize pictures is with Windows paint. Just open up windows accessories and click on paint. Open the file or picture that you want to resize and it should probably be very large and take up the entire window. So click on resize, then click on pixels, then type in about 700 for the top box and the other will automatically resize to match it. Click on OK, then click on file save and your done.

 

bruski

Thanks Bruski. I will give that a try. I just bought a 4th axis for my Tormach and want to try that one piece bolt and Carriage mods. I was wondering if anyone has the CAD files for that, Prints ? I use Mastercam so I can convert any file.  Thanks , Bradly



#7 bradlyw1

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Posted 11 November 2018 - 07:06 AM

Welcome to the forum. The way that I resize pictures is with Windows paint. Just open up windows accessories and click on paint. Open the file or picture that you want to resize and it should probably be very large and take up the entire window. So click on resize, then click on pixels, then type in about 700 for the top box and the other will automatically resize to match it. Click on OK, then click on file save and your done.

 

bruski

Very nice work bruski  !!



#8 bruski

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Posted 12 November 2018 - 03:29 AM

Thanks!



#9 Larryx

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Posted 04 March 2019 - 02:19 PM

I am also a newbie who has been working on a RG G design for about 6 months.  I am sort of new to machining, having worked in Aerospace for 40 years but as a designer, not as  a machinist. I have a question regarding silver soldering, My shop is  small so I do not have room for full size anything especially  gas tanks which are only used very occasionally I am looking into buying one of the Bernzomatic oxygen/propane sets which  should be adequate for the relatively small amount of joints required on the gun, and will take up little space in the shop.   Anyone have an opinion as to whether I am heading down the right path. All opinions are welcome.


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#10 Stirlingking

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Posted 04 March 2019 - 10:18 PM

Larryx, about the Bernzomatic torch, propane or Map-Pro should give adequate heat, but the small oxygen tanks don't last long and are expensive.  BTW pure Mapp gas in 16 oz tanks gave higher temperatures but was replaced by Map-Pro. 

I would recommend a small oxy acetylene set of tanks and gauges, not much bulkier, but the tanks are re-fillable and I consider it a "real" tool. .  

Keep researching and asking around to find what will work best for you. 

Welcome to the Forum. 

 

Stirlingking 


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#11 Cutter

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Posted 05 March 2019 - 04:01 PM

Welcome to the forum Larryx.
My 2 bits worth ,  redesign an eliminate the solder. 


#12 Larryx

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Posted 05 March 2019 - 04:11 PM

Thank you Stirlingking for the insight. Based on your comments, I reviewed other online  forums and it seems current users of the Bernzomatic system are unhappy with their systems for the very reasons you mentioned. Not happy that you cost me several months shop toll budget but very happy that you most likely saved me from making a significant mistake. 



#13 Larryx

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Posted 05 March 2019 - 04:19 PM

Thank you Cutter for your comment. I am obviously very aware of the one piece but unavailable bolt that you created, but such things as hinges,, oscillator mounting bracket,, and similar items  are hard to do in one piece. I  am doing the build completely manual. On a different subject, I would like to see how the barrel wedge retention system works but other than many references to it in several posts on this forum, I have not seen any sketches, drawings or other info regarding the technique.. 



#14 Cutter

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Posted 05 March 2019 - 07:18 PM

It’s a simple draw clamp, using a 4-40 AHCS
I guess the “wedge” just came from the shape
of the clamp. The slots in the barrels are parallel to the extractor
slots at.05 deep. The clamps with a 36° included angle.
I don’t have easy access to the solid
model anymore, it’s on an old hard drive setting on a shelf.
Good luck with your project.

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#15 Larryx

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Posted 06 March 2019 - 12:04 AM

Thanks for the  great pictures,

 

Am I understanding correctly that the barrels are not threaded at the 'breach" end. They are held in by friction?



#16 Cutter

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Posted 06 March 2019 - 12:28 AM

Thanks for the  great pictures,

 

Am I understanding correctly that the barrels are not threaded at the 'breach" end. They are held in by friction?

 

That is correct, no threads.



#17 Larryx

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Posted 06 March 2019 - 02:46 AM

I apologize for coming to the table late, so to speak, but is there a specific method of setting the headspace on each barrel or will the process become obvious once I get the hardware ready. my understanding with the threaded barrels is that the particular barrel is adjusted by means of the hex at the muzzle. Obviously only the subject barrel is adjusted. I appears to me from your photos that two wedges must be loosened for a particular barrel to be adjusted.Does the adjacent barrel stay in place as it still has one wedge "on the job"?

#18 Sparky_NY

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Posted 06 March 2019 - 03:00 AM

I apologize for coming to the table late, so to speak, but is there a specific method of setting the headspace on each barrel or will the process become obvious once I get the hardware ready. my understanding with the threaded barrels is that the particular barrel is adjusted by means of the hex at the muzzle. Obviously only the subject barrel is adjusted. I appears to me from your photos that two wedges must be loosened for a particular barrel to be adjusted.Does the adjacent barrel stay in place as it still has one wedge "on the job"?

Gatlings do not have individual barrel headspacing provisions.    The entire barrel cluster moves fore and aft with the nuts on each end of the mainshaft.   That changes the headspace on all barrels at the same time.       This is the reason that attention has to be made to tolerances when making the bolts and the barrel mounting.


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#19 Larryx

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Posted 08 March 2019 - 03:32 PM

I guess I need a little more information on using the draw clamps, aka wedges. I need to know the size of the hole required in lieu of the threaded holes. I am assuming the barrels would be a close sliding fit, but, instead of guessing, could  you give me a suggestion as to the required size. My barrels are 0.501 inches dia. Thanks in advance.



#20 Larryx

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Posted 08 March 2019 - 03:49 PM

I took a second look at enlarged versions of the pictures you provided ad it looks like  there may be a reduction in the diameter of the barrel similar to what would be if the end was threaded.This of course creates a shoulder.  The hole in the barrel plate is sized to fit the barrel, or vise versa, and the barrel is retained by the shoulder on  barrel and the  wedge shaped clamp. Am I seeing this correctly?






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