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D&E Re-build


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#21 Steve McKuhen

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Posted 03 March 2013 - 08:17 PM

A gun drill is made rigid by pressurized oil pumped
through the center hole.
What if a barrel was pressurized through the
center hole? Would this work?
Any ideas?

#22 Cutter

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Posted 04 March 2013 - 01:07 AM

The center hole in the drill is for coolant
to flush out the chips.

#23 Steve McKuhen

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Posted 04 March 2013 - 01:14 AM

What I mean is pressurizing the barrel while turning
the taper to eliminate chatter.
Just a thought. If it would work someone
would be doing it.

#24 Steve McKuhen

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Posted 06 March 2013 - 10:07 PM

Here is that red monster tool post grinder
I made long ago. It was one of the first things
I made. I thought I was doing good.
It has standard ball bearings and a universal
motor. It was conroled with a router speed control.
Has run out and chatter.
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Its replacement is a high speed spindle. It uses angular contact
bearings. The bearings are pre-loaded. The motor is
high speed DC, variable speed. It is the same
spindle as on the Bonelle T&C grinder.
The wheels are held with a draw bar and are interchangeable.
Need to get the proper belt.
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#25 Pmercer

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Posted 14 March 2013 - 09:43 AM

You should get a nice finish like this.

#26 Steve McKuhen

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Posted 14 March 2013 - 10:46 PM

Hey Mr P.,
Still waiting for the belts I ordered.

#27 Steve McKuhen

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 02:45 AM

Received the belt but for some strange reason
they were all 3.14 times longer than I thought
I had ordered. After checking the site I realised
that they are listed by diameter rather then length.
I spoke with a nice lady all got the entire order corrected.
This is a good source of belts, from one to one gazillion.
http://sdp-si.com/
Should be able to make a test grind next week.
Have plenty to do till then.
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#28 nitewatchman

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 04:53 AM

Thursday was National Pi Day after all --- 3-14.

gary

#29 Steve McKuhen

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 08:03 AM

That is too funny.

#30 Steve McKuhen

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Posted 28 March 2013 - 12:00 AM

I have some carbide tips similar to
Cutter's carbide cutter.
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Because of the angles this tip can be
used to cut and face without
changing its position.
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It reminds me
of the tangential tool or as it is
called, the diamond tool.
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I have a few tips that are broken on this
cutting edge. I made tool holders to use
the unbroken cutting edges.
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#31 Steve McKuhen

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Posted 28 March 2013 - 12:23 AM

These tips cut the barrels but did not
leave the finish Cuter achieved. The
swarf was fine grained like pepper instead of curls.
They did not stop the chatter.
I had to make another tool post for the holders.
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As this reminded me of the diamond tool I made
one to fit the Craftsman lathe.

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There is not much room above the top slide.
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I made several test cuts.
This stopped the chatter. The cut was rough as I did not
sharpen the cutting tool with a radius. I just left
the HSS edges square for now. I have my T&C Grinder
set up for another project.

I need to check my phone. I need to re-size the pictures.



#32 Steve McKuhen

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Posted 28 March 2013 - 04:49 PM

The belts arrived for the tool post grinder.
To my surprise it works very well. The free
motor speed is 12k rpm and with a load of
a .002 cut it is 9k-10k rpm. I added more
vent holes in the motor cover.
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I read a post on another site where the author
was going to purchase a saw blade sharpener
from Harbor Freight and use the motor for
a tool post grinder. As it attaches on a round rod
he was going to attach it to his round tool post.
I feel he is going to have the same problems
I had with the red monster. There will be chatter
from the grinder bearings as there is
no separate spindle.
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As I had one of these I checked the grinding wheel.
I made an arbor for it to fit my grinder.
The wheel is about 4" in diameter and 1/8" wide.
Worked pretty good.
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I used the grinder with coolant. It splashed
the coolant everywhere so I added guards.



#33 Steve McKuhen

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Posted 28 March 2013 - 05:09 PM

I finished the spring loaded follow rest.
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This also surprised me as my first attempts
were not successful. Used with the diamond
tool and a HSS cutter it all but elimanated any chatter.
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I tried several carbide tools in the diamond holder.
Because of their more acute angles they dug
into the barrels and made a concave cut.
With the proper radius on a HSS cutter I believe
I have solved my chatter problem and
I can now go on to the next step.



#34 Steve McKuhen

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Posted 05 April 2013 - 01:11 AM

I continued with the bolt body.
The material arrived from Online Metals.
I set up the band saw to cut them to length

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I used a 10 tooth blade, an 18 tooth would be better.
An abrasive cutoff would saw probably have been
faster but I did not want to apply heat at this time.
I faced them and removed the burr with a file.
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I cut a 5/16 x .080 slot, .313 from one end.
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That is a carpenter's clamp. I need to make
a more elagant adjustable vise stop.
I used a 1/16 edge radius tool to round over
the edges of a 5/16 x 3/8 W-1 flat bar.
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I set up the mini mill to part the bar into .250 length pieces.
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This will become the lug. It will be silver soldered
into the slot of the body. The slot will align it
and keep it in the correct place.



#35 Steve McKuhen

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Posted 05 April 2013 - 01:13 AM

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#36 Pmercer

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Posted 10 April 2013 - 04:42 PM

Looking good. I've not worked on mine in a long time. Looking to move ASAP and get a new workshop set up!

#37 Steve McKuhen

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Posted 13 April 2013 - 07:54 AM

I made a tray of sheet metal to hold the bodies.
I used a heavy bar as a counter weight.
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I used a spring center punch to indent 4 pips
on the slot. This allows room for the solder to flow.
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I cleaned the bodies with sulfuric acid and
rinsed with water. As this will corrode the steel
do not acid dip until right before soldering.
Place the flux soon after dipping as this will
protect the steel. If the steel is clean you should
see a slight rusty color in the slot. Do not
touch the slot after acid cleaning.
I am using an old cell phone camera. It does
not have much resolution but you can
still see the pips.
I cut two pieces of .060 dia wire solder
1/4 to 5/16 length. I flattened the solder before
setting in place. Keeps things from rolling.
This seems to be the correct amount of solder.
Less than this and I have had lugs that were not
fully covered. More and there was excess solder to remove.
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I placed a drop of flux over the solder, enough
to cover all when the lug is placed on top.
The flux is diluted with water about 50%.
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#38 Steve McKuhen

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 05:55 PM

I cleaned the lugs in acid holding with a hemostat and rinsed with water.
Was careful not to touch the area to be soldered.
Placed in the slot and aligned with my fingers.
Made sure there was enough flux.
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The water in the flux will steam off as soon as heat is applied.
This will cause small parts to move. To avoid this I bring the heat
from the bottom slowly until the water is gone and the flux
turns white. At this point the flux will hold everything together.
I bring the torch tip closer until the flame is completely surrounding the bolt body.
Next the flux will start to turn clear and flow like water. Just before the body
turns a dull red the solder will start to melt. I leave the heat in place
and gently press down on the lug with a soldering tool. This puts the
lug in place and presses the solder from under it. The temperature
is now so that the solder will draw itself over the complete joint.
Everything is now a dull red.
I remove the heat and let everything air cool.
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I use a mapp gas and oxygen torch.
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It works will for silver solder but the oxygen bottles are expensive
and run out of gas just when you need it. I solved this by attaching a small
hose to my large oxygen bottle.



#39 Steve McKuhen

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Posted 24 July 2013 - 02:52 PM

I received a PM from Steelcrafter asking for information about the cam modifications.
I am going to post my reply here as some one else may be interested.
I had plan to give more information and pictures when I progress to making the cams.

Hi.
I have read your posts.
I can not locate my notes on the cam modifications.
Yes, it does make a difference in the amount of torque
on the crank handle and the smoothness of the travel.
The purpose is to eliminate the abrupt change in direction
when the lug hits the cam.
The plans call for moving one hole on the dividing head
and 0.005 on the table to produce a 45 angle.
I started plunging at the entry groove.
I moved the head one hole and the table 0.001 for several
holes, then 0.002 for several holes, 0.003, then 0.004, and
then 0.005. This created a curved slope on the cam instead
of the abrupt angle.
I will keep looking for my notes.
Hope this helps.

#40 Steve McKuhen

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Posted 24 July 2013 - 04:22 PM

More reply, I am sure Steelcrafter does not mind sharing this information.

The opposite cam will need to have the corner removed to
match the change at the entry groove.
No binding or jamming.
Had not progressed to ejection yet.
Look at my post Modifying the cam. It shows a picture of the cam.
I have not found my notes. But I am sure that I took
the length from the entry groove to the apex of the 45 degree angle
and divided it into 5 parts. Then the cut was increased 0.001
at each part.




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