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Finger Ejector


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#1 Steve McKuhen

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Posted 10 January 2012 - 09:36 PM

Attached File  Finger Ejector-id=640.png   87.42KB   1 downloads
Here is an idea for a finger ejector. This is taken from Nightman's drawing. I do not have dimensions yet. I have not made one yet. There is enough space to make this. It should work.



#2 Pmercer

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Posted 10 January 2012 - 10:30 PM

Do you think taking the lip off of the remaining bit either side of the new extractor finger is the best option here?

#3 Steve McKuhen

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Posted 11 January 2012 - 12:27 AM

Attached File  Finger Ejector, another view-id=641.png   117.02KB   0 downloads
Hey Mr. P,
I left the remaining lips of the ejector on the drawing for several reasons. The discussion of blow out is still ongoing. The idea of not modifying the previous or following part. Matching this idea with others. No dimensions. No testing.
I know that the barrel ring will have to be modified to accept the finger ejector but it's finial shape needs to be determined. It would be easier if the finger end was round.
I am planning on making the test prototype of the bolt with added material so that the remaining lips would be much more substantial and then removing material instead of adding.
What do you think of the belleville spring idea? I think a combination of the two ideas will solve the ejection problem?
There is also the flat spring idea.
I am getting close to finishing my other project. Then I can work on the ggun again. I think I am going to use the parts I have made for experimenting and make a completely new gun. I am on a fixed income so material cost is a big consideration.
Good to have Sparky, Roller and others with their ideas.



#4 Pmercer

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Posted 11 January 2012 - 10:09 AM

I've been watching with interest. I've not done anything on my build in a while, but the enthusiasm is building!!!

If the chamber is nicely polished and the 'finger' has a nice crisp hook on it, I'd imagine the Belleville washer could be done without.
I'm hoping when I've got my receiver finished I won't have any problems. Lol. Machining grooves in the bolts to add this finger is an easy fix though!

#5 Sparky_NY

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Posted 12 January 2012 - 11:43 AM

A couple of thoughts.... The original extractor is only .007 thick in the area where the rim sets, this is why they crack and later break off. In discussing a "unsupported chamber" and the pros/cons, I don't think the .007 wall provides a hell of a lot of support, thus the cracking and later breaking off. The new spring is a spring so it does not provide any support itself. I suspect in the drawing above, the original extractor hook with a section cut out for the new finger would be even weaker and break off quickly under use.

I know it would be a PITA but the "proper" way to implement a extractor as drawn would be to get rid of the original DE extractor hook (if its not broke off already LOL) and just go with the new extractor. Unfortunately, the barrell ring would have to be redone and the groove in the barrells to restore chamber support, possibly another method .

My plan, which is more involved, is to make extractors as drawn above, just like nearly every gun commercial made uses. I used ruger 10-22 barrels on my gun, which are chambered for long rifles of course, so I can put the barrells back in the lathe and square off the end to remove the existing cutout for the original DE extractor hook, chamber will still long enough for 22 shorts. The finished barrels would be maybe 50 thou shorter but who is going to notice that? THEN... I plan on remaking the barrell ring and going to a wedge clamp arrangemet for holding the barrells that was detailed in another thread on here.

I know its more work, but the finished product would have a fully supported chamber, good extractors, interchangeable/removable barrels and............... WORK..... the most important thing LOL

The extractor drawn above is the best solution. It is what nearly every gun manufacturer uses, because it works well. The RG gun uses this method and does not have extraction issues. If done in a initial build I think its even easier than cutting the DE extractor hook.

#6 Steve McKuhen

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Posted 12 January 2012 - 05:06 PM

Sparky,
I just made a drawing of the idea you and Nitewatchman posted. I do not have any dimensions. I left the remaining tips for now for the reasons mentioned.
I see a problem with the proportions of the drawing. I do not think there will be enough material on the bolt to accept the retaining pin as the D&E bolt is smaller than the RG&G. It will interfere with the firing pin. Need to make one and test it.

#7 nitewatchman

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Posted 13 January 2012 - 12:13 AM

You might consider rotating the extractor perhaps 20 or 30 degrees. This may give the retainer pin a path that does not interfere with the extractor.

nitewatchman




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