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Posted by Anderson Guncraft on 10 January 2016 - 04:43 PM
This pic was taken yesterday 01/09/16. 1874 Camel in .45-70 nearing completion. I still have the feed hopper to machine. This is the last major part of the gun to be done. Gear blanks are at the gear cutting shop and should be done in a couple of weeks. After the gun is done I'll start on the tripod parts.
If you are on Facebook search for Anderson Guncraft.
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Posted by Cutter on 18 January 2018 - 05:06 PM
Where is everyone ?
Posted by Sparky_NY on 14 February 2017 - 01:51 AM
Spent a good part of the day learning fusion 360 and drawing up the DE housing with all its details, including the threads. It made me pull out half of what little hair I have left but should be worth it in the long run.
Posted by Cutter on 27 January 2017 - 04:35 PM
Posted by Cutter on 06 January 2017 - 06:07 PM
Posting an image for joboxxer
Posted by cet119 on 28 February 2016 - 10:06 PM
So I have been quietly working on a 38/357 Gatling Gun of my own. Today it was above average temps so we went to the range with 150 rounds to give it a try. It is very much based on what bruski has posted on the forum, with a few mods. Extractors are a flat formed spring, similar to a marlin 336, carrier is one piece 7075T6 AL, Barrels are from the guy in Sacramento. Cocking ring and recoil lug are "one piece" which was machined out of two pieces of DOM machined separately and then placed one withing then other and silvered together. This is all on a manual lathe and manual mill, no CNC, not even a DRO.
This was somewhat of a proof of ability test, now I will go back and start cleaning up, finishing out. I did run into one issue, cartridges jamming up on the feed. It seems like some of my brass has a little thinner heads (actually I think some are rounded a bit on the edge) than the others and it managed to wedge one rim behind the other. For the folks who have experience on this, how does your groove depth relate to the head thickness? Not sure if I made the groove a little too wide or not wide enough... I milled it out off a piece of 3/4 sq AL, so I figured I would just try making a couple up with slightly different parameters and see what works better.
Posted by Dave on 07 December 2015 - 10:53 PM
Good reading, lots of pics and good refrences...
11 megs worth in pdf form...
Posted by Cutter on 14 November 2015 - 03:54 PM
Posted by Sparky_NY on 14 July 2018 - 09:08 PM
I like the idea of having a positive feeding bolt rather than a pusher, this would eliminate feeding problems while another barrel is recoiling. So maybe the groove should be cut a little wider with a taper of course to ramp up the rim under the extractor while feeding. I know from my experiences while testing the prototype very well that recoil is a big problem all of the sudden compared to the rim fires. Like opening up a new can of worms so to speak. It is hard to tell in the video how much shaking and shocking the gun is going through because it is so heavy to see the actual movement.
The raised boss on the inside of the top cover traps the ammo which makes it work a lot like a controlled feed gun. See the pic I posted earlier in this thread of that boss on the original gats. I used one on my 22 and it did wonders for feed reliability.
Posted by bruski on 13 July 2018 - 05:19 AM
Not sure how it all fit but I think cutter has a different idea for the ejector and doing away with the slotted bolt bottom. He will post some pictures after a few tests with the extractor are made.
In the mean time, my brass has arrived and the chips are flying over here about 2 pounds of chips any way. I am making the carrier, pan and barrel plate as separate parts as the pan is countersunk into the carrier .125 of an inch. This eliminates any wondering with long drill bits. I used my rotary table to index the parts separately being careful not to move it any, as a matter of fact, it is still bolted down to the mill table now.
The pictures show the carrier and pan together with one of the short bolts in it. Still have to mill the slots for the cam follower pins as they will be about a third of the way up from the rear end of the bolts. Won't know until assembly with a cartridge chambered on BDC in firing position.
Got to get the shop vac out and clean up a little around my shop now.
Posted by bruski on 28 June 2018 - 04:31 AM
Here is a picture of two new style 357 bolts in the making. They are 4 inches long with a .750 diameter rear end and a .437 diameter front end and that is about 2 inches long on the flats. I plan to use firing pins from a 1917 Enfield rifle that will be reworked a little. Not sure on the extractors yet.
Posted by Cutter on 22 June 2018 - 03:44 PM
Half inch diameter for the bolts does seem on the small side. The .22 versions are roughly 7/16 and look at the difference in the diameter of the ammo. A bigger diameter, 5/8???, bolt would give more room for the pieces.
I know there are hardly any posts on the forum these days BUT..... I look daily and have a lot if interest in your project. I have the barrels and plan on a .410 shotgun, 6 barrel gun build next. As I always do, I expect to shamelessly steal your ideas. Your gun design elements should apply to any center fire version and ideas for those are a rare find.
I am fighting the temptation to inquire with Cutter about that extra set of 38/357 barrels he has.
Just need the right bait
Posted by bruski on 29 May 2018 - 09:59 PM
Well, I loaded 6 rounds in her and had one fail to fire and another bolt failed to extract. Now I remember where it was that I left off at. Put another ten or so rounds in the stick mag and tried it again. The rounds were hanging up in the magazine even with a brass follower to weight them down some.
The bolt that failed to extract had a weak spring under the extractor, fixed that. The failure to fire bolt had a broken firing pin in it which is the same type of ejection pin that the others have in them also. These pins are long and are .0625 diameter for the entire length except for the hammer end which is similar to the RGG firing pins but longer. There isn't much room in the bolt for a larger diameter firing pin with the extractor taking up so much depth. It wouldn't be much of a problem except with a center fire type of cartridge the firing pin can't be lowered any. So a larger diameter of bolt is the only other fix that comes to mind. This would allow for a larger diameter of spring also to get a deeper dent in the primers. I realize that the firing pin centered and the extractor depth would still be the same with that cartridge so a different type of extractor would need to be designed to allow for a heavier firing pin. Maybe the firing pins could be necked down where they pass through the extractor area and beefier on the hammer end for a longer distance. The hammer end is where the pin broke in the fail to fire bolt.
Any way, that is where I am at with this.
Posted by John K on 01 May 2018 - 06:09 PM
Posted by John K on 25 April 2018 - 11:44 PM
Posted by John K on 19 April 2018 - 11:07 PM