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Posted by Anderson Guncraft on 10 January 2016 - 04:43 PM
This pic was taken yesterday 01/09/16. 1874 Camel in .45-70 nearing completion. I still have the feed hopper to machine. This is the last major part of the gun to be done. Gear blanks are at the gear cutting shop and should be done in a couple of weeks. After the gun is done I'll start on the tripod parts.
If you are on Facebook search for Anderson Guncraft.
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Posted by Cutter on 18 January 2018 - 05:06 PM
Where is everyone ?
Posted by Sparky_NY on 14 February 2017 - 01:51 AM
Spent a good part of the day learning fusion 360 and drawing up the DE housing with all its details, including the threads. It made me pull out half of what little hair I have left but should be worth it in the long run.
Posted by Cutter on 27 January 2017 - 04:35 PM
Posted by Cutter on 06 January 2017 - 06:07 PM
Posting an image for joboxxer
Posted by cet119 on 28 February 2016 - 10:06 PM
So I have been quietly working on a 38/357 Gatling Gun of my own. Today it was above average temps so we went to the range with 150 rounds to give it a try. It is very much based on what bruski has posted on the forum, with a few mods. Extractors are a flat formed spring, similar to a marlin 336, carrier is one piece 7075T6 AL, Barrels are from the guy in Sacramento. Cocking ring and recoil lug are "one piece" which was machined out of two pieces of DOM machined separately and then placed one withing then other and silvered together. This is all on a manual lathe and manual mill, no CNC, not even a DRO.
This was somewhat of a proof of ability test, now I will go back and start cleaning up, finishing out. I did run into one issue, cartridges jamming up on the feed. It seems like some of my brass has a little thinner heads (actually I think some are rounded a bit on the edge) than the others and it managed to wedge one rim behind the other. For the folks who have experience on this, how does your groove depth relate to the head thickness? Not sure if I made the groove a little too wide or not wide enough... I milled it out off a piece of 3/4 sq AL, so I figured I would just try making a couple up with slightly different parameters and see what works better.
Posted by Dave on 07 December 2015 - 10:53 PM
Good reading, lots of pics and good refrences...
11 megs worth in pdf form...
Posted by Cutter on 14 November 2015 - 03:54 PM
Posted by bruski on 29 May 2018 - 09:59 PM
Well, I loaded 6 rounds in her and had one fail to fire and another bolt failed to extract. Now I remember where it was that I left off at. Put another ten or so rounds in the stick mag and tried it again. The rounds were hanging up in the magazine even with a brass follower to weight them down some.
The bolt that failed to extract had a weak spring under the extractor, fixed that. The failure to fire bolt had a broken firing pin in it which is the same type of ejection pin that the others have in them also. These pins are long and are .0625 diameter for the entire length except for the hammer end which is similar to the RGG firing pins but longer. There isn't much room in the bolt for a larger diameter firing pin with the extractor taking up so much depth. It wouldn't be much of a problem except with a center fire type of cartridge the firing pin can't be lowered any. So a larger diameter of bolt is the only other fix that comes to mind. This would allow for a larger diameter of spring also to get a deeper dent in the primers. I realize that the firing pin centered and the extractor depth would still be the same with that cartridge so a different type of extractor would need to be designed to allow for a heavier firing pin. Maybe the firing pins could be necked down where they pass through the extractor area and beefier on the hammer end for a longer distance. The hammer end is where the pin broke in the fail to fire bolt.
Any way, that is where I am at with this.
Posted by John K on 01 May 2018 - 06:09 PM
Posted by John K on 25 April 2018 - 11:44 PM
Posted by John K on 19 April 2018 - 11:07 PM
Posted by Sparky_NY on 19 February 2018 - 12:42 AM
Update: Now have about 300 rounds of live ammo thru the gun and it is functioning flawlessly. 35 rounds takes about 3 seconds and is a real riot. I had a scrap of 6x6 post left over from building my pole barn that I used as a bullet stop, well it split in half from the trauma, there is about a inch dia ball of lead in the middle where a bunch of bullets went in the same hole. I made up the final top cover in brass, along with its latch. Remaining now is some cosmetic parts, the oscillator assy, elevation wheel, sights, knobs for the rear cover and a few other small items. Functionally its 100% as is. I will make a video when I get the cosmetics done.
Meanwhile, I am gathering materials for the .410 build. Got a piece of 4"ID brass with 3/16 wall, 15 inches long which should work great for a housing. Have the 6 mossberg barrels in hand.
Posted by Sparky_NY on 06 January 2018 - 08:51 PM
Am I the only Odd-Ball ??
Maybe......... but with all the guns you built, NOBODY dares to say a word !
Posted by Sparky_NY on 04 January 2018 - 06:46 PM
tetrahedron? isn't that some sort of antibiotic used for the flu?
Ok, I will take a guess at holding it, tabs would be the first thought, possibly some V blocks? Last guess, the old superglue trick.
Posted by Sparky_NY on 03 January 2018 - 04:59 PM
I took a break from the Gat project since July and returned to it about a week or so ago. The cocking mechanism is completed and installed. I assembled one bolt (all bolt parts are made) and tested it. It cocked and fired a blank. I am now assembling the remaining bolts and shaping the firing pins, two more to do. I tested all the assembled bolts and they function as intended.
Today I fired a 3 round burst (blanks), its so quick it sounded almost like a single shot. I can't fire normally yet, I have not made a top cover or mag at this point, but soon ! I am going to give a whirl at 3d printing a top cover and mag for test purposes, that should be interesting. I got the 3d printer last year, assembled it and tested it quick but have not done anything with it yet.
I have a few things to tidy up, gotta make the bolt insertion knob and knob for the cocking switch. Right now I just have a setscrew shaft collar on the cocking switch, no spring but it works just fine that way.
More to come........... ( PS I got a whole coffee can of blanks at a local flea market for $5.00 this summer, perfect for tests)